This is just my notes more then anything else. Most is taken from advice given online for questions I have asked in various forums/ groups. If it helps someone else great! What has a strike though is already bought or done. It is a living page so it changes almost every day. Most but by no means not all of the advice came from yahoo groups low cost voyaging or liveaboard. Guess it is because those are the boards I am most active on.
Around here the weather can go from -10 to +90 F 0ver night so bucket list is broke down to reflect that variable more or less.....
some of this is in concrete, some is not,
there is no particular order or reasoning to the order this list is in, as I think to add something it gets stuck in .
Check rigging wires,
check boom
need to buy boom vang, boom protector
check for other missing deck rigging
figure out where i am going to add some hand holds
decide on insulation factor, foiled "bubble wrap" makes a doozy of a radar reflector
Winter day weather bucket list.
Measure overall boat size needed for tarp, cable and lock, put tarp over boat and set up cable and lock,
get lock for companion way and install lock
make halyards get
check for rain leaks
Spray Bleach every where I can get it to inside ( get spray bottle, 1 gallon of bleach should do it since it is a small boat) after chlorine dissipates use Zap on inside if still needed.
Dual ventilator scoops
take catalytic heater and Propane tanks to boat and set up.
Take cushions in house and inspect and clean covers so I know it is done. Store in house while rest of work is being done.
Scrap all areas not already redone. get plastic scrapers
scrub all areas not already redone. shop rags
sand all areas needed get multi-grade packs sand paper
repait jib
measure for and purchase missing batten
some where in all this decide what kind of paint/ varnish/ epoxy and color to
use on insides. buy paint, brushes, rollers etc
paint/ varnish/ epoxy needed areas.
(review low cost voyaging for paint finish advice under " I have a boat")
Line " hidden " areas with foil or aluminum bubble insulation for radar reflection
cabinetry
check cabinet sink is in for repair, refinish or replacement
Plumbing
check porta potti for repair or replace
check water lines for sink
electrical
Captian Pauley's site on redoing electrical
Get copy of Nigel Calder’s Boat Owners Electrical and Mechanical ManualRun 15 AMP cord to inside boat.
Check electric tool box for needed replacements
Put solder iron/ electrical tools into boat
googles and gloves to fool with battery!!!!
baking soda!!!!!
take batteries to get tested and probably replace
If replace get deep cycle marine or golf cart battery set up
( main point is batteries can stand repeated drain )
( good news is I won't have to pay core charge on batteries
if they need replacement. )
get solar battery maintainer for interim use.
( walmart or autoparts store)
get tinned wire and marine grade connections for battery / electrical system
make sure all is heavy enough to accommodate solar system and other electronics to be installed later. ) I'm thinking 10 gauge wiring here)
get DC fuses to add inline as needed
rewire current electrical with tinned wire
decide placement and shape of solar panel
create wiring schematic for DC
create wiring schematic for AC
wiring
get red and yellow wire for DC (available encased in a single sheath and is called duplex safety wire)
get white, black and green wire for AC (available as triplex wire, again in the same sheath get marine stranded and tinned copper wire.)
label maker to mark wires
2 bus bars 1 ac 1 dc
circuit breakers, fuses, etc marine grade connectors to battery
find place to get Marine grade connections
decide what type of DC connectors to use and get proper collection.
purchase and install permanent Nav lights, ( keep portables for back up and The Toy)
Install wiring for VHF, radar, GPS(?), cabin lights (LED), out side extra lights(LED). anchor light(LED?), nav lights(LED?), fan, laptop(s), bilge pump(?). Allow wiring for at least 6 other TBD accessories for later installation.
build solar panel, install solar panel
if it works, order more parts to build more solar panels
figure out how many LEDS I want and where I want them placed.
Radio
get VHF marine radio
get license(s) for radio
decide on antennae
get materials or pre-built antenna install radio and antenna
Anchors
get or make a drogue
Warm day Listtake rub rail off and inspect deck plate hull joint.
check condition of the bolt heads in the bow just above the cannister.
Scrub outside with ZAP ( arrived a gallon of ZAP and scrubbers ) If anyone is interested I bought 50 scrubbers for 19.90 from ZAP).
get materials to set up off trailer to paint etc
cinder blocks, 4x4, rags, tie down straps ( tornado alley)
shop rags
get polish for fiberglass, polish fiberglass >
notes to the next group of to do
check keel, keel pin, keel wire possibly replace keep pin , wire >
replace keel pin with a phosphor bronze bolt >
Check winch to keel , maintain or replace as needed >
check rudder for swelling /expansion, >
check rudder hardware. >
check and or replace chain plates with turn buckles? >
decide on spider lines on deck plate at chain plates. >
1. Rudders have a habit of swelling at the hinge pin, soak yours for a couple of
days and then see how hard it is to make it swing. you can fix this by fairing
down the fibreglass a little and spreading the hinge gutter and installing
teflon washers (Ace Hardware in the screw section)
2. Remove the hinge pin for the centre board and check for wear and tiny stress
cracks in the pin, use a magnifying glass, if it is badly worn or shows signs of
stress replace with a phosphor bronze bolt, Stainless is too soft and will fail.
3. Replace all your chain plates with turnbuckles.
4 If it has been sitting on the trailer for a while, check for stress cracks on
the outside and inside of the hull around the trailer bunks, you may find some
distortion also which is no big deal as long as there is not a lot of spidering
5. Check around the tabernacle area for delamination. Roger MacGregor was
infamous for not putting enough caulk around the boltholes
6. Replace the klugey bolt at the end of the boom with a bail, (personal
experience has shown that these bolts will fail)
7, Rewire your boat with tinned wire, get rid of the automobile type crimped
connections and replace with proper marine grade connectors
8. replace the clutch centreboard ratchet (if fitted depending on year) with a
fixed ratchet, examing your centreboard cable for kinking or signs of stress,
usually shows as very highly polished areas especially where it connects to the
centreboard.
check to see if supports on pop up need replace or repair
find out what kind of fiberglass to use for repair
repair spot at deck plate
check under rub rail and re attach deck plate to hull
check along bunks for spider lines hull rub etc.
Paint
put 1/2 teaspoon royal blue pain per quart white interior self sufficient sailor page 239
an epoxy barrier coat to seal the hull before painting
Deck plate to hull
beveled deck penetrations
Bevel and epoxy the holes FIRST then redrill for your screw/ bolt.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck&page=2
General
get more rope to make monkey hammocks measure for hammocks
make monkey hammocks
life lines around perimeter
netting for animals
harness for pets
life line for pets
extra strong boat hook to pull dog out of water.
PFD for dogs
life Ring
MOB lift
cock pit tent or vinyl and frame
extra PFD's
mounting bracket for outboard/ trolling motor
check local rules on 2 cycle Outboards if outlawed get
4 cycle 9.9 HP outboard LONG shaft!!!!
35 to 50 lb trolling motor
Build shelf and gimble for camp stove use inside
set up deck rail for camp stove use
dry wall sander with long extension for bottom/ hull
Re do
consider adding water tight bulkheads under cockpit, splitting area in two with access on both sides
same fr under v berth depending on circumstances
Chain plates
USE 316!!!!!!!!!!"Make sure that you use the right kind of stainless.
316 stainless steel would be the right type for this application. It does not
crevasse crack like 304 and stands up in a salt water environment better"
advice from some one who knows a LOT more then I do
I was reading your list and noticed the info on the chainplates. These should go from a few inches above the deck to below the deck and be attached/bolted/glassed to a bulkhead. If you are getting spidering around the hole where the chainplate come out of the deck you need to check to see if the plates are not solidly anchored and have been putting pressure on the deck. Check you bulkheads to make sure they are solid everywhere. If they are I would make sure they are tabbed on both sides all the way around with a strip of glass cloth. This will make the joint stronger, strengthen the hull and secure the bulkhead. Never use bondo...never! it absorbs water. Purchase marinetech and fill any holes with it. Always over drill holes through anything that is cored with wood/balsa. make the hole a couple of sizes larger then using a bent nail under cut the wood below the deck. Then fill the hole with epoxy or you can use marinetech. then once this is hard re drill the hole in the center. This gives you a a glass/epoxy protection from water getting into the wood and prevents rot. I would do the same thing around where the chainplates come through the deck. Under cut the deck, fill this under cut with marine tech. Then when you replace the chainplate use the appropriate marine caulk.
Balance boat, wind vane, tweak wind vane.
Instant whisker- spinnaker pole Chapter 27 Self - Sufficient Sailor
Indespensables
Aka life's little pleasures:
chapter 28 self suffecient sailer.
Want to's
check out specifics to convert to JR
Luxuries or something I got at such a great price i could not say no.
Bimini
supply source
epoxy
get manual bilge pump, figure out where to put it, ( level boat by water line and put some water in to see where it collects, put bilge pump where the water collects.)
AC/DC multimeter
