Food: Homemade yogurt from powder milk Part 2

Checked on the yogurt at about 12: 30 PM.. Poured it out into a bowl and its kind of thin.  That of course cooled it off, so I had to heat a bit of it up and pour it back in and stirred it up to mix. Checked the temp. Everything is back on track.

It  taste like yogurt and would be fine. I just want it a bit thicker. Right now its about the same consistency as canned tomato soup after you add water only with thicker chunks. Speaking of temperature control When I was mixing it all together it seemed like a lot of bother to do the add some hot then add some cold water to get it the right temperature so I just heated the water up to the 110- 120 degree range and poured it in. Once it got just short of being at  the point of not adding more I checked the temp. It was a bit hot so I added a bit of cool water until it was right, then added the yogurt. 

Saw Dust Factory : Rudder page 4 The Fiberglass Jig Continued

Last pic was  one side of the rudder boards being in place in the jig for the first dry fit.   I need to mention that I used two pieces of paper on this to intentionally have a lot of over lap between the jig and the adhesive, as well as over lap on top.  Also note, I put the shiny side up.

  If you are using most types of polyester you HAVE TO BLOCK AIR  OR IT WILL NOT CURE!!!!!       

MAKE  ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU RESEARCH , READ AND UNDERSTAND THE INSTRUCTIONS WITH ANY PRODUCT YOU PURCHASE  BEFORE YOU START YOUR PROJECT.  Online tutorials, youtube how to videos,  any other how to video I could find online and calling the manufacturer of the product are how I learned what I needed to know.  Look at as many sources as you can find. You will get differing opinions and methods. That is  good thing. It will help you figure out  what will work best for you and what your comfortable with.  What one video don't cover many times is covered in a different one. 

When you can visualize  the steps involved of what your going to do and how you are going to do it, and don't have any worries of doing it the way you have in mind because you have done your  home work,  you are probably ready to make your materials list and start collecting what you need.

 
I have been doing my own honey do's for over 20 years. Even those of us who have experience can make mistakes that, if not corrected in time, can  waste materials.   Now I did not intentionally mess this up,  but its probably a good thing I did. It gives me a real good way to show how incredibly important dry fitting EVERY THING is. 

Ladies, I don't care what it is your working on. If  you are trying to put two or more pieces of ANY THING together permanently whether or not you think you may want the option to reuse those materials for something else later voluntarily DRY FIT IT before you add the adhesive!!!

This applies to any thing from wood, metal,  pipe, stone  etc.  Had I not dry fitted this gig to the rudder, the entire project would have become land fill material.

 I had to put a piece of the freezer paper, shiny side up,  under it to show the gap we had at the first fit.

As you can see, it was a significant gap that had the potential to  throw the alignment of the entire project off .

That one  gap spread several inches down the rudder.

  
Moral of this? NEVER , EVER,  NEGLECT THE DRY FIT STEP OF ANY PROJECT!!!!!!!





Now back to progress.



This is a dry run but the instructions are for what I will do after I apply the  polyester to the boards.  The reason for the paper is so it will NOT stick to the jig.  When I do it for real with the polyester in place I will use some cheap tape to tape the seams close.


 

Put a piece of your per SHINY SIDE DOWN on the area not already covered. Over lap is a GOOD THING!

 

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Take the  freezer paper or what ever you are using  from under neath and fold it  around the ends and  over  the top side of the boards.  Remember to use something that will NOT stick to the adhesive. Plain old fashioned wax paper is good.   Ladies this is one of those things where skills you know you have come in real handy.  Just do not waste time trying to get it picture perfect. You cannot reasonably expect it to look as nice as a regular box that you wrap. Your paper will have wrinkles from the jig you normally would not have to deal with.  Sloppy is not going to hurt it one bit, as long as you have the air blocked when using polyester. 

Make sure it covers the ends if you have any joints so air does not get in and prevent cure.

Finish it up like a present

I added another layer of paper on top  for extra security.  I don't want the paper under neath to slip.

Add the end piece to the jig and repeat on other end.

All boards ready to be screwed into place to let it cure. Remember if you use Polyester, it  needs to not have air on it to cure properly. 

The Rudder

To be short the rudder is a mess. NOT as bad as it could be but it needs work. Page might load slow., There are about 60 photos here. As before mostly this is for me to be able to keep track of where every thing goes later.  The good news is the rudder swings freely  with no problem. Have not had chance to soak it yet to see if she swells. The sails have had dibs on the bath tub.

Tiller cover needs washed

Over all not to bad from a distance

Tiller connection hardware.

The wood itself seems solid enough. Needs sanding, varnish and epoxy. Someone mentioned the Bristol finish . Think I might want to rethink my viewpoint on using that  after all.    Give the ol' gal a marine version of bling.

Tiller is completely delaminated all the way up.

 I am SOOO glad I have electric sanders.

Entire edge is serrated like a steak knife.

This one bothers me. The crack goes all the way through and it is like the wood got moved over in this one spot. .

Lots of round black spots. Wiping it down with Clorox.

Spot where wood shifts.

Work in progress Washing Sails 2

Well the main sail is on the line. Its not perfect but it looks one heck of a lot better the it did.  Tried just soaking it in Oxyclean,.  So so job. Planning on redoing it with Woolite and Oxyclean later. The small 90 ft jib is on the line. That was almost clean in comparison to the others. It had some red./ orange spots that I think might be mud but now I'm not so sure. It s not responding to the Oxyclean  the same way red mud does and after 20 years of dealing with red mud I know how it acts.  Might be rust.  Other then that  some black areas but not to bad. PO must not have used it a lot.  Checked it a bit ago and it is looking whiter then it did so that is good.

The 130 ft jib is a complete mess.  Red mud or rust, black dirt and I noticed the luff has at least one frayed area. The leech has some small spots that need fixed.  The numbers came off as it was soaking, which is a good thing since I was wanting to take them off any way.  The material the numbers is made out of is apparently dry rotted. I could tear it with my finger nail fairly easy   This jib has seen action.  The good news is the repairs done are solid. Other then that just some stitching that needs to be done in a few areas and loose threads here and there  that need trimming.  Piece of cake

Main sail cover looks solid enough. Has a couple of holes in it that need a patch.  The way they are almost looks like someone put them there on purpose. Think I'll hold off on the patch and see what develops on this  when I put her together.  Needs washing. Tiler cover needs a good scrubbing and the opening for the eye needs whipping.
Up dated Book review page for  Capable Cruiser, mechanics book and  self sufficient sailor. Still waiting on  2 books.
Next comes checking out the rudder.

Work in progress Washing Sails and Researching Rub Rails

 The main sail is soaking in the tub.I started out with four scoops of  generic Oxyclean from dollar tree.  the plug popped out from me moving the sail around and lost the water which was OK since it was really grungy any way.   Ran a new tub and the water was clear until I put more oxyclean in. Boy did it get dirty fast. The sail is starting to look really good though. It has that Oklahoma red mud on it so how clean it gets is any ones guess.
The black part looks really nice. It s wet and all shiny so it should look OK once it is clean. Since it is below freezing tonight I'm going to let sail soak over night and hang it up no clothes line  in the morning.

While the sail is soaking I'm researching different parts of this on you tube.
Have to remove the rub rail to see what the situation is under it,. It does not look good as far as deck plate hull attachment. Saw that when I went to look at it.  Basic plan is take off rub rail, see what the condition of the joint is in that area.  Saw a few screws that the holes literally had tops of holes missing so it was like screws had been inserted into slots instead of holes. which I'm pretty sure is not factory.
How to replace a rub rail


There is a wood piece that runs both sides of cabin. Planning on taking those off since I figure the screws are screwed into that. Needs to see if that is factory. Thinking the thing to do is epoxy that wood or at least  drill out the holes where the screws go and fill them with epoxy then reinsert screws. .

LIfes Little Pleasures.

Finally I get back to The Boat. I keep hearing the word yacht.  Me? Owning a yacht? I'm still trying to wrap my head around that one.  Now I know folks in the groups, who are basically my sailing family. won't take this wrong or at least I can't think of any reason any one would, but if I said the word yacht around MY family, they would tell me I'm being stuck up.  I found that out when the 900 dollar car I got many years ago was a Mercedes.  My grandpa's would have thought it is VERY cool but my cousins.... eh. Some of them are a completely different story.  So for blood kin, with a few exceptions.   I  simply have a sail boat.

This week in the spare minutes of life we got the mast off and stored.  Still have not got the bow ___ off and stored. I'm drawing a complete blank on what the frame work thing around the bow is? DAH!!!!!
Got the sails, sail cover etc all out to wash and  the boom off of the main sail. Inspected the main sail stitching. Except for the hole I already knew about, the immediate area around that  and  a few stitches in the head of the sail  the stitching looks great! Brought the rudder inside so I can take a good long look at it. I noticed a few cracks but have not given it a hard look yet to see if it is surface or not. I figured if I was perfect it would be a unexpected delight so if I have to repair it so be it. I bought a 30 x 10 tarp so she is covered. The tarp goes all the way to trailer so got some really short bungees for it. Have fenders under the tarp so air can circulate. Took out the porta potti. I think maybe we may have to get a new one if I can't gets parts. It has 1985 on it on a label. Time will tell. Stowed small stuff and PFD's I had bought for boat in side. .


 Life has kept pretty busy this week but I finally got some pics made and ready to post so here they are. Hopefully I won't duplicate what I have already posted. I'm putting them in groups, more or less, for easy reference. This page may be slow to upload since it has 80 plus  photos on it.  Most of these are multiple shots of the same thing from various distances.  I took  them that way simply for reference and perspective so I know where every thing goes should the need arise.  Loaded them so I have a convenient place to keep them.



The Cock pit. Yes She seriously needs a bath!

The depression on the port side aft is what separates this as  Venture 22 from other MacGregors. The hatch opens to the cabin which is something I'm going to CHANGE! Making a box, glassing it in and making it water tight.

Cock pit lights. NOT wired in . Port side

Cock pit light starboard side, not wired in.

The Bow

Cabin

We figure these were to fasten something but not sure exactly what.

As you can see there are two of them.

Repair spot

Inner wire for cockpit light  starboard

Cock pit wire Port not wired

Starboard window seal needs fixed

Same window

The Pop up WORKS!!!!!!!!! YIPPEEE!!!!!

I have NO idea what the L bracket  hardware does, unless it is to support the rods. Need to take a good look when it is down next time I am in the boat.

At several places round the pop up these holes are just there. I'm totally clueless what they are for at this point.

Holes

Holes

Holes

What does that dimple next to the hole mean?

Hi Mr Bill!!!!

Enough of holes

 Pop up Top

Buy wing nuts

Blister town  here we come. All this scraping

The Mast

This thing was NOT going to come off during transport. Had to work like a dog on this bungee and the knot.

Looks so innocent and simple to break loose .

 I think they used a 5 pound bungee on a 10 pound spot, to make it good and tight.

Aft

Port

Top

 Hardware shots

Better shot of hardware

Hardware shot

Close up

For perspective

Mast Tabernacle

Spreader configuration

I'm pretty sure the spreaders are supposed to fold down next to mast. For now they are still out but safely in a place no one is going to mess with them and risk getting them broke.

 Inside

 Sink counter needs work .

V berth is about 3- 4 inches taller then my foot is long, That's abut 14" high.

I'm sure we will figure out where this goes, but for now I'm open to suggestions.

 Hatch hinges need replaced. The locking mechanism works fine. 

Porta potti spot.