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.....Ideas to consider....

Showers on board  this came off of one of my other groups. While I do not personally have a shower on board I thought I would post it to share with those who might be looking at that option.



(from RVTravel.com) NOTE:

Take a really nice shower AND save water
by Greg Illes

Before we even took a test drive in our first RV, we knew about "the
shower rules" — basically, fast and furious, and be sure to turn it
off while you're soaping up. When I was young, we called this the "GI
shower" because military guys with limited water supplies would make use
of the same technique.

So we were prepared — sort of. What we were not prepared for was the
pitiful, miserly piddle of water that came from the standard RV shower
head. For awhile, we figured that low flow meant low satisfaction —
oh, well. But after a few campfire gripe sessions about this miserable
trickle, some friends told us about a new product that made the same
amount of water feel like a lot more. It was the Oxygenics Body Spa RV
Shower Head, and it was (and is) sold by Camping World, Amazon, and
other retailers. I was a typical skeptical Engineer, but the 4-star and
5-star reviews convinced me to try it out.

This turned out to be one of those night-and-day experiences. The
Oxygenics head made our RV showers significantly more enjoyable. I
remember thinking, "Gee, a real shower." No, it can't duplicate the
three-gallon- per-minute flood we get at home, but at around 1.5 GPM in
my RV, it makes my water last a good long time. The spray is wide,
uniform and forceful enough that you don't get the feeling that you have
to be right under the shower head to be sure the water hits you. There
is a lot of online info about how it's done, available in the website
(check it out here
<http://www.oxygenic s.com/Oxygenics- Solutions/ The-RV-Showerhea d.html> )
and in the various user forums.

The unit costs less than $40 complete with matching hose. It comes with
a built-in on/off valve, and installation is a screw-on snap for most RV
installations (it has a standard half-inch NPT pipe fitting with rubber
seal that will attach to most shower valves).





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Flea collars keep wasps out
by Cheryl Probst

The next time you're buying a flea collar for your dog or cat, throw one in for your RV. It could save you from having to spend money on repairs to your rig's propane system.

Wasps like the smell and sweet  taste of propane, and will turn the pilot light areas in the refrigeration and water heater compartments into their next home. If too many wasps move in, their condo will clog up the
pilot light area and the system won't work. When the propane is turned on, it could result in not only frying the wasps but also the RV  wiring, meaning a potentially expensive service call to the repair shop.

This is where the flea collar comes in. Cut it in half and lay each half on the bottom of one of the compartments. Wasps don't like the smell of flea collars and will congregate elsewhere. Replace the flea collar whenever you get a new one for your pet. Turning off the propane when the RV is in storage will also lessen the likelihood those pesky critters will invade these compartments.

Other solutions, such as commercial wasp traps to keep wasps out are available. If wasps have already invaded these compartments, one-shot solutions to get rid of them include dousing them with a cup of soapy
dish detergent in water. Wasps reportedly like the smell of beer better than they do propane, so place a half-full can of beer in the compartment. The wasps will crawl into the can to get at the beer and
drown.

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6 Things Happy People NEVER do


Space Saving Storage on the water
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Laser Flares as a safety or rescue device


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Got this off one of my lists. Looked at the video.Seems like a REALLY GOOD idea to install for LP users.

http://gasfuse.com/index.php/2010/11/intro/


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Chain plates support/ strength/. back plates

As far as strengthening the deck to better take chain plate loads on the
craft we are talking about I would be inclined to glass in 10mm ( about 3/8")  marine plywood
plates under the deck and into the hull deck joint, these need to be feathered
on the edges to avoid sudden changes in stress then bolt the chain plate
through using large stainless washers or a backing plate applied and lightly
bolted through while the resin is still "green". Removed when cured and
finally applied using a polyurethane or butyl rubber mastic as a bedding for
the topside plate only, this not to provide strength but to prevent water
ingress, which is the prime purpose of most bedding.
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plain old fashioned fiberglassing extra layers in











 Deck plate hull joint